Correction: I touched a monkey

Thanks to Erich for the below correction: 
... there are at least two more of these "Flacktuerme" (anti-aircraft towers) still standing in Vienna. One of them can be seen from my office - it's in the Augarten in the 20th district. I forget where the other one is. 

I touched a monkey, actually fed one

Today, I took a field trip with my first graders and my colleague, Michi. 

We went to the Haus des Meeres.  I have been very curious about this place for several reasons.  First, the name Haus des Meeres translates to "Sea's House" which made me think of an aquarium.  However, on the side of the building in large blue letters is "ZOO".  In the end, it is more like an aquarium although there is a tropical room that has colorful birds and small monkeys.  The other interesting thing about this building is it's the only anti-aircraft tower left from the Second World War.  There used to be an anti-aircraft battery atop this tower. 

Here's a picture of the building:

  

As you can see from the picture, the building also has a climbing wall on its outer face. 

Inside, it is most definitely an aquarium with giant tanks displaying hammerhead sharks, Japanese spider crabs (which live in deeper than 1000 feet), a giant green turtle, and assorted fish.

Perhaps the coolest part of the excursion for me was when we got to feed the monkeys.  Actually, they weren't monkeys. I cannot remember their name now but they were a smaller relative of the capuchin. 

Here's a picture:

We had a cool tour guide named Phillip.  Phillip would excuse himself and return with a small plastic crate full of wood chips (sawdust) with maggots crawling underneath.  Then, he would fish out a maggot, place it in his hand and steadily hold his hand by the wooden beam where the monkeys would then appear.  They would walk over to Phillip, grab the maggot and escape to the trees to eat their lunch. 

At the time, I imagined we were feeding them worms but later a couple corrected me, they were maggots.  (It was easier to hold them in my hand if I called them worms!)

Most impressive of all was the six-year-old first graders in our class that were able to feed the monkeys.  Obviously some of them were grossed out by the maggots while others were scared of the monkeys.  Maybe it was reassuring that I was so active in both holding the maggots and feeding the monkeys thus enabling so many of the children to overcome their hesitations. 

In the end, it was a really cool experience having such tame, cute little capuchins (or whatever they were) come right up and eat out of my hand. 

It goes down in my history of cool animal interactions second only to swimming with the green turtles on several occasions in Barbados. 

What's up with this blog?

This blog is the brainchild of Andrew Lantos with some editing and contributions by his wife.

This blog was started when these two individuals chose to completely uproot their life in Baltimore and move to Vienna, Austria  (A life that, in retrospect, was quiet, easy, relaxing and meant relatively lucrative jobs for both of us).

But instead of contentment, the heroes of this blog left...all friends and family behind to venture forth to Vienna, Austria.  A place where, from day one, they had no apartment, no friends, no family, a very minor knowledge of the language (almost none), and Andrew had no job.  Luckily, Rachel's already-obtained employment meant we would not starve from the beginning (although in truth we ate a lot of pasta during the month of August before Rachel's first paycheck arrived.)

So, to all those brave souls looking to venture out in the darkness without compass or guide, here is what it is like to leave behind all you know, all means of communication, and start completely over in a foreign country.

Hopefully, through our misadventures, some questions will arise which you had previously given little thought.  Perhaps, before you go abroad, you will do more thorough research both of your potential job prospects and the job market in your chosen country as well as to the local real estate system.

If you are a first-time visitor to this blog, you should look through the archive as we have already discussed many pertinent details such as:  how much it costs living here versus in the US (with figures), the realities of the Viennese real estate market and how much savings you need in order to rent here, and other details of day to day life.

We welcome you to our adventure and we hope you learn from our mistakes...

Cheers,
Andrew

European nudity: Are Americans too modest?

Why are Americans so modest?  Or maybe the better question is, why do Europeans love nudity so much? When I assert that Americans are modest, you might think I’m nuts. One only needs to tune into MTV’s shows like Jersey Shore or The Real World to think American “kids today” have no shame at all.  Perhaps times are changing in that regard, but regarding nudity and as a Gen X-er, I remain conservative, prudish, and painfully modest -- especially relative to my European cousins.

Europeans have a reputation for being more liberated in this regard, and it really turns out to be true.  For instance, here in Austria you can go to any (any!) one of the many spas in the area and find not only saunas where co-eds mingle together in the buff, but naked swimming hours. And don’t think you can get away with being special, because swim suits in the sauna are actually verboten (forbidden). I asked my friends here about this phenomenon, immediately mentally leaping to interesting scenarios where friends go to the spa together (because they do).  “How does that work?” I ask.  “Don’t you feel weird if your best friend’s checking out your girlfriend’s junk?”  What happens if you run into someone you know?” “You went with your colleague from work…and his wife???” Inevitably, they laugh at me.  A lot.  My wife got the same reaction when she asked whether you get a modesty gown at the gynecologist.  She explained how at regular appointments in the U.S., she gets a garment that lets them uncover only one part of her body at a time.  But here apparently, she’s told that the doctor comes in, she strips down, jumps up on the table, and he goes for it.  Lots of medical practices have migrated from the U.S. to Europe, but sadly for her, the modesty gown is not one of them. 

Other superfluous nudity: In our furnished apartment, there’s a small folksy painting hanging in our bathroom showing a man sitting on the toilet with his wanker in his hands. Translated, the caption reads, ‘please, I’m pissing.’  I don’t know why, but it makes me uncomfortable, this naked cartoon man.  Then, weekly we get junk mail fliers from local stores that casually feature topless women.  Mind you, these are not underwear ads, these are ads for very non-sexual things, like end tables and kitchen furnishings.  Why the nudity? I don’t know, but I refer you to my assertion – Europeans just love nudity.  (As a side note, I also tell you that these weekly circulars, which any 3-year-old could pick up off the family dinner table, include ads for sex toys, S&M accessories, and ben-wah balls. There is no surreptitious packaging or special naughty mailing list – it’s just the weekly specials at the Love Factory, naturally.)

Our friends in Europe find much hilarity with our being so scandalized about their comfort with nudity.  We’re told, “You don’t stare at the spa, that’s not polite.”  “Doctors are trained professionals. Get over it.”  “Sex is natural and so is the human body.”  And we’re asked, “Why are Americans so repressed?” A stock answer is that it’s because the Europeans shipped all the Puritans to America, so why would we be exhibitionists? There’s probably a real good explanation for these differences that an anthropologist could offer, and much as I wish I could be more liberated, I really don’t think I’ll ‘get over it’ anytime soon. All I know is that when I’m naked, I feel more than naked. For unexplained reasons, I feel like my soul is showing.

New Panorama pics of Vienna

Only 36 hours in Vienna? No Problem!

Thanks to Chris for passing along this article.

Source: New York Times

Source: http://travel.nytimes.com/2012/01/08/travel/36-hours-vienna.html?src=dayp

FOR years, Vienna has lingered in the fading glory of the fin-de-siècle era, understandably satisfied with the grandeur of its Hapsburg-era architecture and parks. Now a new wind is blowing through this imperial city, with the opening of dazzling hotels, new and renovated museums and a reinvention of the gasthaus, that ubiquitous pub where Viennese artists and philosophers, workers and shopkeepers linger over schnitzel and beer well into the night. This year, the city celebrates the 150th birthday of its most famous artistic export, Gustav Klimt, whose gold-toned paintings will be on display at 10 of the city’s museums.

Friday

4 p.m.
1. EXPLORING THE QUARTIER

Last year marked the 10th anniversary of the MuseumsQuartier, the former Hapsburg stables turned culture plaza. Mumok (Museumsplatz 1; 43-1-52500-0;mumok.at), the museum of contemporary art housed in a basalt lava cube on the plaza, has a new director, Karola Kraus, who has already made her mark with a show called “Museum of Desires,” which reorganized the five-floor permanent collection of modern art. Wander the galleries, then stop at Café Halle (Museumsplatz 1; 43-1-523-70-01;www.diehalle.at.) for a mini-obstkuchen (fresh fruit tart, 2 euros, or $2.56 at $1.28 to the euro). The romantic yet modern restaurant, its walls hung with billowing sheer curtains, is tucked into the former private quarters of the emperor. Downstairs, photography exhibitions in theKunsthalle Wien (Museumsplatz 1; 43-1-521-89-33;kunsthallewien.at) draw crowds.

5 p.m.
2. CAFé-KULTUR

Café Sperl (Gumpendorferstrasse 11; 43-1-586-41-58;cafesperl.at) is among the most iconic of the city’s legendary turn-of-the-century coffeehouses, with velvet banquettes where you can have a small brauner (espresso) for 2.60 euros. Then cross the street to Phil (Gumpendorferstrasse 10-12; 43-1-581-04-89; phil.info), a Berlin-style bookstore/music shop/coffeehouse with mismatched furniture, D.J.’s and a late-night bar ripe for experiencing the newer side of Vienna’s cafe culture.

8 p.m.
3. TRADITIONAL, OR NOT

For classic Viennese cuisine at an old-is-new-again gasthaus, head for Schilling (Burggasse 103; 43-1-524-17-75; schilling-wirt.at), distinct for its 1950s fixtures and traditional dishes like Kalbbutterschnitzel (veal butter schnitzel, 14.50 euro) and böhmische palatschinken (a dessert pancake with plum sauce, 6 euros). Some Viennese swear the future is places like Skopik & Lohn (Leopoldgasse 17; 43-1-219-89-77; skopikundlohn.at), which kicks Austrian food (and prices) up a notch with dishes like Arctic char over creamed yellow beets (19 euros) in a wildly artistic space, with walls covered in black scribbles. Grab a drink nearby at A Bar Shabu (Rotensterngasse 8; 43-650-544-59-39), with small bites, wine, beer and absinthe menu (glass, from 4.90 euros).

10 p.m.
4. DECISIONS, DECISIONS

Fluc (Praterstern 5; fluc.at) is a club built in a former pedestrian passageway at the Prater metro stop with a stage for live music, D.J.’s and large beer steins (about 3 euros). Or, to experience the new underground scene, go to Brut (Lothringerstrasse 20; 43-1-587-87-74;brut-wien.at), a center for “international, experimental and innovative performance art” (i.e., general mayhem) held in the cellar of the Wiener Konzerthaus (entrance 6 to 30 euros). Looking for calm? Have a drink at Motto am Fluss (Schwedenplatz 2; 43-1-252-55-11; motto.at/mottoamfluss), a new bar on the Danube Canal.

Saturday

9 a.m.
5. TO MARKET

Order an espresso (3.50 euros) and breakfast at one of the dozens of restaurants that line the edge of the century-old Naschmarkt before the crowds arrive. The open-air market is a mile long, stretching between Karlsplatz and Kettenbrückengasse U-bahn stations. Filled with stalls stocked with produce, baked goods, flowers and spices, it is easily one of the best in Europe. On Saturdays, hawkers selling antiques and bric-a-brac branch out for another mile.

11 a.m.
6. ROYAL AFFAIR

If you’ve seen one royal boudoir, you’ve seen them all, so skip the Imperial Apartmentsand head to the magnificent State Hall of the Austrian National Library (Josefsplatz 1; 43-1-534-102-52; onb.ac.at; 7 euros) tucked inside the Hapsburg palace complex in the First District. It was built by Emperor Charles VI in the late 17th century, with a soaring frescoed ceiling, 200,000 books dating from 1500, and antique globes scattered about; you’ll feel like you’ve stepped inside a storybook. Then stop at Café Braünerhof, (Stallburggasse 2; 43-1-512-38-93), the late novelist Thomas Bernhard’s favorite cafe to while away an afternoon. On Saturday afternoons, classical musicians play, and the waiters are appropriately rude.

3 p.m.
7. SHOP AROUND

In the Seventh District many shops carry maps showing all the locally made and European sourced clothing shops. Try Camille Boyer (Lindengasse 25/2; camilleboyer.at) for buttery soft, dove-gray hobo bags from Lumi (175 euros). Or Buntwaesche (Lindengasse 31-33; 43-664-780-44-61; buntwaesche.at) for super-soft cotton children’s clothing in adorable prints (T-shirts from 20 euros). Wabisabi (Lindengasse 20; 43-664-54-51-280; alle-tragen-wabi-sabi.at/) sells Japanese-style geometric-cut women’s clothing, entirely in black and white. Across the street at Werkprunk (Kirchengasse 7/11, enter at Lindengasse 23; 43-1-990-64-32; werkprunk.com) sisters Jasmin and Silvia König make jewelry out of sterling silver and semiprecious stones (35 to 700 euros).

7:30 p.m.
8. RETURN TO THE CLASSICS

Classical music is everywhere in this city, from the Musikverein to the Wiener Konzerthausto the Volksoper and beyond. Not to be overlooked is the Wiener Staatsballett (the Vienna State Ballet) at the Staatsoper. A former star of the Paris Opera Ballet, Manuel Legris, became director in 2010; a seat in his house is a treat (tickets online at wiener-staatsoper.at from 8 to 130 euros).

9:30 p.m.
9. KITCHEN CONFIDENTIAL

Down a winding First District street is Gasthaus Pöschl (Weihburggasse 17; 43-1-513-52-88), with simple wood tables, whitewashed walls and a menu that is consistently excellent. Try favorites like roasted calf’s liver (15.10 euros) or gnocchi with a sauce of spinach and sheep cheese (8.90). Too heavy? Duck into the smoky Kleines Café (Franziskanerplatz 3) and try an open-faced tartine for under 5 euros.

11 p.m.
10. RED DAWN

Die Rote Bar, at the magnificent Volkstheater (Neustiftgasse 1; 43-699-150-150-14;rotebar.at), opened in 1889. It is a marvel of belle-époque architecture, with a chandelier and frescoes of revelers from the 1880s, dressed (and lighted) entirely in red. Saturday is “club night,” which means everything from D.J.’s to burlesque.

Sunday

10 a.m.
11. AMUSE YOURSELF

In the mid-18th century, the Prater, once a royal hunting ground, morphed into what it is today: a European Coney Island. The iconic red Riesenrad — the Ferris wheel of “Third Man” fame — still dominates. Newest is the stomach-dropping PraterTurm, a swing that takes you nearly 400 feet in the air and whips you around at 38 m.p.h. (5 euros). The 360-degree view of the city, if you can open your eyes, is spectacular. As winter sets in, ice skating rinks open across the city. Try the enormous Wiener Eislaufverein, by the InterContinental Hotel (Lothringerstrasse 22; 43-1-713-63- 53; wev.or.at/; 6.50 euros for adults, 5.50 skate rentals).

11:30 a.m.
12. WALK ON BY

The white palace in the center of Augarten park has produced handmade Viennese porcelain since 1923. Last summer the palace opened the sleek restaurant Décor, decorated entirely in gray and green, with a 7-euro lunch menu (Obere Augartenstrasse 1; 43-1-212-38-88; decor-augarten.at). Or try nearby Am Nordpol, a kitschy-art-filled gasthaus with a hearty Bohemian kitchen (Nordwestbahnstrasse 17; 43-1-333-58-54;amnordpol3.at/).

1 p.m.
13. OLD TOWN, NEW ART

Check out the display of Judaica in the recently overhauled Jewish Museum (Dorotheergasse 11; 43-1-535-04-31; jmw.at; 10 euros), then take tram D and ride up to 21er Haus (Arsenalstrasse 1; 43-1-795-57-70; 21erhaus.at; 5 euros). Designed for the 1958 Brussels World’s Fair by Karl Schwanzer, this glass-and-steel temple of modernism is now a monument to postwar art, with exhibitions, a rehabilitated 1960s-era cinema, and a cafe. Then wander next door into the Schloss Belvedere and the Gustav Klimt/Josef Hoffmann exhibition (on display through April), which opened the Klimt anniversary year.

IF YOU GO

25 Hours (Lerchenfelder Strasse 1-3; 43-1-521-510; 25hours-hotels.com/wien), the first outpost of a small design chain from Germany, opened last spring. The rooftop bar offers fantastic views of downtown. Rooms from 120 euros ($155).

The luxury Fleming’s Hotel behind the Rathaus (Josefstädter Strasse 10-12; 43-1-205-990, flemings-hotels.com) opened in February 2011 with gorgeous wood-paneled rooms; “city view” rooms offer great vistas; 130 to 200 euros.

This article has been revised to reflect the following correction:

Correction: January 6, 2012

A previous version of this article misspelled the name of the Ferris wheel in the Prater and also misspelled, at one point, the German for “Vienna” in a reference to a concert hall. The Ferris wheel is the Riesenrad, not Reisenrad, and the concert hall is Wiener Konzerthaus, not Weiner. An accompanying map repeated the errors.

New Year's Eve Fireworks on our street

Although we were informed by our landlady it is illegal to shoot off fireworks on the street, these fireworks were filmed from our 1st floor window.  

Happy New Year!
Alles gut zum Neues Jahr!
Gutes Neues Jahr!

Vienna New Year's Eve TV celebrations!